Saturday, April 24, 2010

Megaavalanche kit guide for 2010

Short kit guide for the Megaavalanche

Yourself for starters: Passport make sure you have 3months remaining, driving license, cycle license and a doctors letter written by you or your doctor.

Bike: If your only doing the megaavalanche and not the sprint then just take the 1 bike, in fact don’t even take your DH bike because you can easily ride the sprint dh track on 6inch travel bike.

Tires: Now this can the tricky bit do you take DH tires or XC well its up to you if your not bothered about rotational mass and weight then stick on the DH tire they will give you a little added protection but on the other hand if you want to keep your bike light keep rotational mass down then go xc with slightly heavier tubes. I personally go xc tires hard compound and have only punctured once or twice through the week.

Drive train: Going with a triple is the most common and good enough, its likely though you will come back with teeth missing or bent. A dual ring with bash is the best option, maybe a 28-36 setup or similar. If you feel you have the strength/power then maybe you can run single at the front with a chain guide possibly a 35T and a good 9 speed 11-34 at the rear. Or if you have the cash go for the new 10 speed rear sram setup.

Suspension: Air Shocks are fine maybe if there old have them serviced before going. Also make sure you check with the manufacturers base settings and set them up correct for your weight with all you’re riding kit on and tires pumped up to racing pressures.
Brakes: Needles to say a good set of stoppers are needed here and depending on how trigger happy you are will determine your rotor size and pad combination. I’d say, 180Fr – 160R if you’re brake efficient or 180Fr – 180Fr if you’re not so efficient and if you’re really inefficient then go for the big 203mm front and back. Get them bleed before you go and get some high end brake fluid put in, go to Halfords or similar and buy quality stuff it’s the boil up of the fluid that usually wipes out your pad to disc contact power Pads Organic in the dry and sintered if it rains..
Goggles: DO NOT WEAR SUNGLASSES!!! Reason being, when you want to get rid of them because there covered in dust, water or sweat, you cant! unless you stop and put them abay or have a lanyard attached to them, but then they will jump around hitting your helmet and body.

Essentials: Adjustable Seat posts: If you’re going for a good result then get yourself a gravity seat post enough said.

Water bottle rack and bottle: This is one component that is forgot about or not used by many riders because it’s too roadie or not cool. Well il tell you this it’s one of the best upgrades for your bike, having nothing on your back is great it stops you getting all sweaty and stops you being top heavy, keep the weight low and fill your pockets. Get yourself a pair of endura shorts or similar and you can carry everything you need in the pockets Pump, tube, repair kit levers etc. but carry a small backpack if you feel the need to just don’t over pack it, all you need are the essentials, you don’t need a workshop on your back.

Good multi tool: Essential saves taking allot of other crap.

Tire Levers: Metal tire, levers not plastic.

Energy Gels: Glucose and fructose based.

Recovery drinks: SIS Rego recovery all the way baby.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Indoor cyling Fitness For Beginners

Training at any time for most people can be a hassle, not only does it take up time but it hurts the next day and you end up walking around like you have soiled yourself for a couple of days, and that for most people is enough to knock the training on the head..
But,Its this sorness that we need to overcome, once you get beyond that Lactate build up (the feeling you get when your legs are heavy) and muscle cell repair it's rare that this will happen again unless you let your training slip for a few weeks. The reason for getting this muscle sorness is due to the muscle cells being ripped apart then rebuilding. Its a bit like evolution they try to evolve they rebuild stronger and try to protect against this happening again. This is an on going process that needs to be done a few times till your muscles are conditioned enough for cycling at your what ever level your trying to reach.

Below are a 2 programs for indoor training, they are very basic fitness programs that are there to get you going they are aimed at sorting out your Aerobic fitness levels and condition you enough to help move on to bigger things.

Before you start we will use a sytem called PE ( Percived Effort) Its a scale of 1-10 (1= easy and 10=V.V.Hard 100% effort) and you have to judge yourslef on how hard you are workin its a good way to motivate yourself as you can ask yourself how hard am i going could i go harder? For these programs i would try and get a percived effort of around 7. if your using a HR monitor this would be around 70% maximum hr. There are other ways PE can be used but i will tell you more about this at another time.

Indoor cycling programs:by Jesper Bondo Medhus Training for Cylclists

Aerobic power 1 (50 minutes)

15 minutes – Warm up (increasing intensity)
5 x (4min high intensity + 2min low intensity)
5 minutes cool down

Aerobic power 2 (49 minutes)

15 minutes – warm up (increasing intensity)
5 x (40 sec. very high intensity – 20 sec. low intensity)
3 minutes recovery5 x (40 sec. very high intensity – 20 sec. low intensity)
3 minutes recovery5 x (40 sec. very high intensity – 20 sec. low intensity)
3 minutes recovery5 x (40 sec. very high intensity – 20 sec. low intensity)
5 minutes cool down

This program is also designed to increase your maximum oxygen consumption. You work with a slightly higher intensity during the intervals than in the previous ‘Aerobic Power 1′ program. You will also gain increments in your anaerobic capacity.
You can expect results after only a couple of training sessions. This program really rocks.

Enjoy

Indoor cycling programs:by Jesper Bondo Medhus http://www.training4cyclists.com/effective-programs-for-indoor-cycling/
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